Van Sipma Jewelers

2011 Ridge Rd. Homewood, IL 60430
708/798-2232

American Gem Society: The Power of Love


The use of rush rings to celebrate an alliance between a couple was mainly confined to improper liaisons. Just as the diamond is the symbol of permanence, so the rush ring was as fleeting as the union it blessed. But, for the wealthy and wise, the eighteenth century provided a sparkling galaxy of betrothal and wedding rings.
The discovery of diamonds in Brazil increased the supply dramatically; diamond jewelry became the chief concern of the jeweler. At the same time, improved candle lighting meant that more social events could take place at night, when these sparkling stones could be seen at their best. Every fashionable lady liked to appear with her fingers glittering with diamonds, both white and coloured. No other gemstone had the charisma of the diamond, and so diamonds became a woman's favorite accomplice in society.

In 1745, Louis XV and several of his noblemen attended a masked ball dressed as yew trees during the festivities celebrating the marriage of the Dauphin to Marie Therese of Spain. This depiction of the ball, held in the Hall of Mirrors at Versailles, illustrates how the lavish use of candles created the glittering effect that brought out the best in polished diamonds.

A Giardinetti Ring (Little Flower Pot) depicting sprays of flowers in precious stones. Sometimes tied with a ribbon or placed in a flower pot, they are typical of the rococo spirit. Here, the bezel in the form of a vase of flowers and leaves is set with emeralds and rose-cut diamonds in gold and silver collets.
To meet the desire for sparkle, polishing techniques were again improved and rose cuts were superseded by the round brilliant. Settings were cut down to reveal more of the diamonds; and, to further expose the diamond's white sparkle, diamonds were set in silver to enhance their whiteness and brightness. In the same way, the old technique of lining settings with colored metal foil was still used to emphasize other stones: red for a ruby, green for an emerald. From about 1760, the backs of the rings were lined with gold to prevent tarnish rubbing off on a lady's finger.

American Gem Society: The Power of Love

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